12
May
2012
Going on an adventure, getting lost, meeting new friends, experiencing new foods, all while having a good time is all part of what it takes to find those secret surf breaks that nobody is surfing. I went on a vacation with my brother to an unknown location where we sat in this tiny little bus for 8 hours up and over one mountain range after another to finally reach the Caribbean Coast. We then had to spend the night at this dark sketchy little fishing town to allow for the high tide to come up the following morning so that we could have a fisherman take us out to our final destination.
After a very bumpy boat ride and $30 later we were finally there. We wasted no time waxed up our boards and waved down the next water taxi we saw. We jumped in the dug out canoe with a little 15hp outboard and we were off to find some surf. We found some the first day and had a blast.
That night we were talking to some of our new friends and they told us about this surf break where the waves only break on a certain swell direction and this swell may work perfect. My brother and I jumped on the opportunity to see it this wave was breaking.
The next morning we woke up early along with our new made friends we waved down a water taxi and once again we were off but this time to a wave that few knew of and few will surf. We pulled up and this picture you see above is the first picture we took that day. It was perfect and nobody was there!!!
My brother and I jumped off the boat along with two other friends and we enjoyed surfing this secret break all by ourselves for 4 hours. It was one of the best days I have ever had surfing and can only pray for more days like that. Big, clean, glassy, barreling, and not a sole in sight!!!